Page 56 - Phonebox Magazine December 2012

Phonebox Foodie
Tiny Thai
Just slightly further afield for this month’s review - to Bedford and a fabulous, tiny Thai, called Rice.
With just eight tables and a growing reputation you’ll have to plan ahead to get a reservation. But the
tininess works in its
favour creating a really
warm and buzzy
atmosphere. You just
know when you walk in
that you’re going to have
a good time!
The menu is extensive
and a little bit daunting
with dishes such as
weeping tiger, yellow
peril, jungle curry, and
blood of dracula! But all
are well described and
annotated with one, two or
three chillies to warn you of their heat.
We shared a mixed platter to start, which included some beautifully light vegetable tempura. We also had some extra Isaan sausage - a north eastern style garlic pork sausage very similar to chorizo, VERY garlicky and extremely moreish. So far, so very good.
I like the way they do their main courses. They have a choice of curries, stir fries or noodle dishes that you then add chicken, beef, prawns etc too. It means there is a huge variety to choose from without it being too overwhelming.
There are also thai salads, and a list of specials. My choice was a chicken stir fry ginger spice (fresh ginger, mushrooms, carrots and spring
onions.) It was, for me, perfect. Subtle flavour with a kick of ginger, good quality
chicken and lovely and fresh.
I like the description of Vampire’s Nightmare -
garlic, coriander, spring onion, garlic, peppercorn
and more garlic! It was enjoyed very much by one
of our party.
I would say the only criticism is that those chilli warnings are a
bit erratic. A three chilli selection was in reality less fiery
than a dish with just one. But other than that, the dishes were all empty when we finished, good wine, good food, good
company.
I recommend you go quick, because I can’t imagine them staying so tiny for long. And that is very much part of its charm.
RICE:
41 St Cuthbert’ St,
Bedford, 01234 272053, www.ricethairestaurant.co.uk
twitter: @phoneboxfoodie facebook.com/phoneboxfoodie www.phoneboxfoodie.wordpress.com
1) Steak and Ale pie: the Swan
2) Chow ki Tikki: Amaya 3) Penne Limone: Kasbah
4) Roast Beef Sunday Dinner: the Bell and Bear
5) creamy mushroom in puff pastry case: donzella
How to become a successful food blogger.....
I read with huge interest the furore that blew up recently following a dodgy re- view by an amateur blogger. In a nut- shell, James Isherwood, wrote a review on his blog and on tripadvisor, compar- ing his starter at a rather posh restaurant to a findus crispy pancake. The chef took umbrage, and launched an abusive attack on twitter, backed up by a number of high profile chefs. The Guardian pub- lished a brilliant article online in support of the blogger. Google ‘guardian ama- teur food blogger’ - it’s well worth the read. The result - James now has a very high profile and a well-visited blog. Good work! Restaurants of Olney beware. It’s about time I got nasty!
HALL OF FAME
My all time top five dishes from around here! Let me know your own top five on facebook/phoneboxfoodie
THE EARLY BIRD CATCHES, WELL, THE BIRD.
THE TIM O’GRADY CHALLENGE
And for gravy....
Over the past few months Iʼve heard many things about the fabled Black Poulet from Pastures farm and having got out of bed early for the farmers market I made my way in the pouring rain down to the market place. Fortunately Iʼd met James a few weeks before through the Big Olney Food Festival and was able to have a chat and learn more about what makes this bird so special.
oil (who doesnʼt like crispy skin??!!)
The Black Poulet comes with giblets, perfect for making gravy.
For a start, its age and no comments about being an ʻold birdʼ as this one is grown longer to allow muscle development which helps with flavour, the next thing is the breed. Apparently the Black Poulet is more closely related to a laying bird than a table one which makes it taste more like, well, chicken.
- Into an oven (uncovered) on itʼs hottest setting for 20 mins then 20 mins per pound after that.
- Fry over a hot heat for a few minutes
- Inserted half a lemon into the cavity with two bay leaves
- Add some oil to a non-stick pan and add in the giblets
I got us a fairly small plump hen bird that I roasted off simply to get the full flavour and boy were we not disappointed. The flesh was succulent and firm and with a really full flavour that clearly had developed longer than a normal table bird. The only downside is that itʼs spoiled chicken for me now, Black Poulet or nothing from now on!
- Add in a pint of water and simmer for an hour
To make the perfect roasted Chicken I:
- Add your stock back in and hey presto, proper gravy!
- Sprinkled the skin with oregano and lots of sea salt flakes
- Add in half an onion, a
chopped carrot and a stick of celery if you have one
- Check itʼs done by inserting a skewer into the thickest part of the thigh and breast and if the juices are clear itʼs ready
- Add in a small glass of white wine and let it bubble off
- Let it sit for 10mins before carving then enjoy
- Throw in a couple of bay leaves and some whole peppercorns
- Drain into a bowl
- Add a desert spoon of butter to the pan and add in a teaspoon of plain flour
- Lovingly massaged the whole bird with olive
Each month Tim creates a recipe for us using ingredients purchased from Olney. More foodie thoughts and recipes from Tim at www.timogrady.wordpress.com
56 Phonebox Magazine
- Mix well and allow to cook for 3-4 mins
Mixed Thai Platter RICE, Bedford