Page 52 - Phonebox Magazine April 2012

Phonebox Foodie
Sunshine on a plate ...
Chef Dossier
so what did you learn from those first few weeks?
It was always there in the background, on the back burner. With my lifelong passion for cooking and recent experiences in Spanish kitchens, I was ready to give it a go. It’s a crowded market in Olney, with several good places already established. But I am lucky enough to have the unconditional support of Clair my wife - essential for fulfilling a dream!
what are you like in the kitchen? I'm slightly embarrassed to say that although mostly calm and composed I have certainly been known to have my 'Ramsey moments' with both kitchen and front of house staff. I just cannot accept poor quality so that really annoys me especially under pressure.
The lessons learnt were harsh and numerous. In the kitchen, the value of over preparation and a smaller menu. In the restaurant, better communication between front of house and kitchen. And everywhere, more staff!
it's a very different concept to the small rations of tapas traditionally served with drinks in spain. was that on purpose?
Favourite restaurant? In Olney, Four Pillars without a doubt. Otherwise, a fantastic tapas bar in Palma de Mallorca called ‘Teatro al forno”.
Best and worst experiences?
We researched the local restaurant market and our conclusion was that the local population expected a little more than a 'fast food' type tapas experience. Therefore we have tried to fuse the tapas experience with a more comfortable, relaxed dining experience.
We don’t always get it right. There have been times when the service levels or expectations have not been met. I hate it when a customer is disappointed, for whatever reason. We are striving daily to ensure these occasions are eradicated.
store cupboard secret ingredient?
There is no feeling like seeing people having a wonderful time, enjoying the restaurant, the atmosphere and the food and drink. It makes us feel very proud. Happily I can say these experiences far outnumber the other!
But of course, the El Centro bar downstairs offers a more informal experience where you can enjoy just a couple of tapas and a drink or two.
would have to be 'pimentón dulce' Spanish sweet smoked paprika and also ñoras, which are Spanish dried capsicum peppers, a must for making salmoreta paste used in paella.
you were a sous-chef in mallorca before starting this. what is the biggest difference between working in someone else's kitchen and running your own?
what would you like people to say about your food/restaurant if they are talking to someone else about it.
Beer or wine? Una cerveza por supuesto?
When it's your own business every little thing matters and is under the microscope
board, with a good glass of red.
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Tapas i Pintxos, Olney’s newest restaurant, has been open just over a year. We were there on the first night and have revisited several times since, so we caught up with chef, Marc to find out what that first year was like.
Earliest food memory? Baking cakes and cooking sunday roast with my Grandmother. Home cooked food was a must when I was growing up and she inspired me not to be afraid or intimidated by cooking with fresh ingredients from scratch.
About that first night. we ate at the restaurant on its opening night and to be fair, it wasn't all great, although we love it now. what was that opening night like?
constantly. That goes for the whole restaurant, not only the kitchen.
signature dish? I guess it would be my Albondigas which, I'm proud to say, have gained a bit of a reputation. I'm always being asked for them even when they're not on our menu! I also love cooking Paella.
Wow, the opening night was a massive surprise. We never dreamt we would be that busy. We had a full restaurant, queues of customers up the stairs and to be honest organised chaos is probably being too kind to us! I would never want to repeat the mistakes we made that night but am very proud that we did make it through.
what have you found the most difficult part of going it alone?
The hours are incredible! I think that coping with those working hours alone is enough to drive a lot of potential restaurant owners away from the business.
desert island meal? I can only eat one thing for the rest of my life? The bacon buttie. What else?!
was all this a life long dream?
I hope that people will appreciate the passion that has been put into the food and the freshness of the ingredients that we insist on using.
Favourite flavour of ice cream? Vanilla starter or dessert? Neither. Cheese
Check out Marc’s recipe for Espinacas con garbanzos on our blog: www.phoneboxfoodie.wordpress.com
Fish and chips oR Roast dinner?
Roast dinner, definitely.
Fellow foodie, and recent newcomer to Olney, Tim O’Grady, finds his way around the Olney Farmer’s market, and likes what he finds.
Tim’s first venture to the farmer’s market saw him buy smoked back bacon and local eggs for breakfast and a Ravens Den venison pie for dinner along with Cavalo Nero (Italian black cabbage).
“Cutting into a bought pie is always a bit tense as you don’t know what you’re going to get. Cutting through the rich, thick pastry was a job in itself but on revealing the filling we were really excited and ready to tuck in. As you’d expect there were chunks of venison, tender and mouth-wateringly tasty in a dark, rich gravy but not too much of it. The perfect pie to end the perfect foodie day!” says Tim.
Read his full farmer’s market report on timogrady.wordpress.com. You’ll find the cabbage recipe and his tips for perfect mash there too!
52 Phonebox Magazine
BRAISED CAVALO NERO
1.Roughly chop your cavalo nero (you need a lot of it as it cooks down) and blanche it in boiling water for 5 minutes. Drain and let it cool and then squeeze the water out of it.
2. Chop two large cloves of garlic and one small red chilli and add them to a frying pan with three desert spoons of olive oil. Add in a heaped teaspoon of lightly crushed fennel seeds.
3. After a minute of frying (don’t let the garlic colour) add in the cavalo nero and toss it around in the oil. Gently fry it for 8 minutes until it’s slightly crunchy and all the chilli, garlic and fennel is mixed into it.
Name: Marc Wilkinson Restaurant: Tapas i Pintxos